![]() Next run the RCA cable to the front of the car following the same path that the hatch release cable takes. The connector is large but some coaxing will get it to finally slide through: You'll also notice I reused the rubber grommet that the original license plate wires ran through again for the new ones. Since I have an extra reverse light harness I can easily return to stock if ever needed. I spliced into the left side reverse light (green/white) with a quick connect and then connected the ground to a screw on the body that was already doing the job. The next connection is to the reverse light switch for the camera activation. Use heat shrink connectors for the best hold as the wire sizes are completely different: I decided then to use the stock harness for the new plate lights and order a backup in case I ever needed to return to stock. I removed my license plate light harness and discovered that the metal holding the lights in place was completely shot. One set runs the LED plate lights and the others run the camera. Be careful not to over tighten the small screws as you will crack the housing:Īttach the camera to the back of the plate bracket and then use zip ties and electrical tape to keep everything together and protected from any water spray up in the rear of the car. First off I laid everything out on the bench to make sure it was all thereįirst step was to take the camera bracket off and install the mount that came with the plate holder (note: make sure you don't loose the little weather seal washer on the back of the camera): 1 Clarion CC4001U backup camera and 1 Clarion license plate camera holder CAU001. Fist off, here is what came in the 2 boxes. The installation was pretty straight forward. He mentions that he is going to install a camera with his and although I don't have my deck yet I purchased the camera now while I had the interior panels off to replace my hatch/fuel door release cable. It can be found here: 300zx-stereo-installation-write-up-t572341.html It's not much but I wanted to add to BlackWidowZ's thread about his stereo install. Steering wheel control buttons all function via the three different steering wheel wire terminals, others have claimed that the bluetooth module behind the glove box needs to be tapped into to retain the bluetooth control buttons that is unnecessary.After being given so much help lately I thought I would add a little something back. The factory subwoofer has its own amplifier that can be fed with low-level RCA signal from an aftermarket head unit with full retained function. Tweeters are wired in parallel with the front speakers with built-in crossover filter. ![]() The reverse camera requires 6v power applied rather than 12v, I read a facebook post in a juke group that a guy wired up 12v into the camera + power wire and didn't have a problem but I wouldn't recommend this and to use a small and cheap DC DC buck converter to drop to 6v for the reverse camera power terminal.īaseline and Rockford Fosgate models are both head-unit amplified, not externally amplified thus the door and tweeter speaker wiring terminals are the same. I created a simple diagram with all relevant information needed to retain all of these functions with an aftermarket stereo system installation or modify your current installation. I dug up the service manual and did my own installation using its AV wiring information and found it to be completely accurate to my 2013 SV with rockford audio. Information regarding retaining the USB port, auxiliary port, factory subwoofer, and reverse camera functionality is hard to come by in a reliable form. I have struggled to find good wiring diagram information based on the AV system of the Juke. If anyone is interested, I'll make another one of these for the 15+ models. Edit: This diagram only applies to 11-14 years, the 15+ models did switch around some wires such as auxiliary audio jack, USB port, video input, etc. ![]()
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